Friday, August 8, 2008

Part 6 Christmas Island















Wednesday 23rd July and we have the neighbours come to visit. We have a lovely time. There is Gilles who is a top French Chef, Petra his German, bubbly and competent wife who is a great sailor, Then Nicola who is 8 and loves his fishing and talking and finally Lara who is 3 who has a sweet smile and loves to dress up in pretty dresses. Petra brought a lovely cake that she baked which was eaten pretty quickly! Their boat is an Adams steel 45’ sloop that they are taking to Phuket (via Cocos) for a refit.
Thursday 24th July we went for a lovely walk up the road past the lovely old and stately administrator’s residence which is not used any more. Steve has been going for walks around the island finding places I would be interested in and taking me along to the easier spots at a more sedate pace. So he had sussed out this area before and took me to see some bird nests with chicks in them. We also went to a cave, which Steve explored, while I tried to read a book while trying to fend off red crabs. They are more scared of me, but there are so many that I found them hard to avoid. Steve came out of the cave muttering to someone. It was a big robber crab that he was trying to reassure that he only wanted to take it to show me, then he would let it go. It was not amused.
Friday 25th July and I have to try to get the paperwork done for Bali. It takes ages on the internet so by the time I get back; Steve has itchy feet and decides to go for a longgggg walk. He loves his walks as after his walk he takes me on a twighlight walk so I can climb some steps to an old war bunker and look over the views of the harbour, breathtaking!
Saturday 26th July it’s time to fix the main just in case we need to order any supplies. It takes most of the day as we had damage to 6 slugs and had to swap fittings around so we could use what we had on hand.
Another boat arrives. It’s a cat and it’s real exciting to have another boat in. We started called it rub a dub as there were 3 men in the tub! It was late afternoon by the time they anchored and we just had time to call out welcome and then we were off to the movies. Open air movies sitting on Aluminium bench seats. We had been warned to take a pillow. We were not sure what was showing, but Steve braved it, and hoped it was not the rumoured ‘Sex in the City’. We started up the big hill (movies are about 5kms up it) hoping to get a lift. We did not hitch as we thought if someone wanted to, they would stop to give a lift. Steve was enjoying the walk and I did not mind the first 2kms, but I started to sag and Steve was being very encouraging to me. By the 3km mark we started the hitching and we managed a lift by the 4km mark while Steve was virtually dragging me up the hill. The moral to this story is to start hitching early as the lovely citizens do not know if we do want a lift or to walk! We had a bit of time to spare once we arrived so we had a nice cheap meal at the local Chinese of fried rice and Chinese tea and the waitress told us what was showing and not to sit in the pink seats as there was a bit of a party at the flicks. Well you guessed it, it was ‘Sex in the City’ and as we walked down to take our seat, a male voice called out from the back with relief that there was another guy around. There ended up being a total of 4 men there. The movie was sponsored by a beauty salon and they had wrapped 3 rows of seats in pink, and the ladies were having a great time dressed to the nines, drinking champagne. They added a great atmosphere. Getting home was easier. It was downhill and we started hitching straight away. Soon we were in a car with the local Policeman and his 2 boys and he took us direct to the boat. Lovely people.
Sunday 27th July was market day at the Parks Department. This time we decided to go for noodles before we started to hitch up the hill. As we prepared to cross the road, the customs lady stopped and asked if we needed a lift up the hill. Well you can’t look a gift horse....so we hopped on board thinking we can eat up there. She took us direct to the market as she was setting up a stall there. We went for a nature walk while waiting for the market to start and saw heaps of crabs (robber and red) and were surprised to find out that there is more than 1 red crab per sq metre of island!!! After the walk we met up with the multi-cultural’s and the rub a dub dubs. It was then we found out that the radd’s had taken 23 days to get from Phuket, were sick of the boat and have been staying in a hotel while here. The only other silly people we know that are cruising into it like we are!
Monday 28th July and its time to check if we have any info about getting to Bali. Nup! There was an email to Mr Allison and we obviously have a language barrier. Try again.... We also turned the boat upside down trying to find the engine filters. Now that is all I can think about and we still can’t find them. Later on in the day after the umpteenth search they were found. In the first place that Steve had looked, but unfortunately for us they were in an old water pump box.........
We had a BBQ on shore at night as the multi culturals were leaving. Steve tried hard to catch a big fish. To do this he had to catch bait fish, so off he goes with gidgi in hand and catches 2 dozen big Gardi’s. The local constabulary was on hand when he surfaced to lecture him about spear fishing in a Marine Park. We didn’t know, honestly! Well in the end, we had no big fish for the BBQ so Steve whipped up some lovely mince patties. All through the BBQ Steve was being ragged about not catching fish. When we arrived back at the boat, we found the largest flying fish we had seen had landed inside the cockpit, onto the carpet.
Tuesday 29th July Still trying ways to get to Bali and manage to get on a morning (6.30am) sched and get some very helpful information from Bjorn on Mischief and Alec and Val from Hanuman (via Stan) We head off and drop all of Steve’s gardi’s and one big flying fish to the multi’s son Nicola. Still no luck with the emails but now we have some ammunition to help us with our Bali efforts, but we do get a reply from the wind generator mob. The wind generator broke on the way to CI and Steve looked at it and decided to email for help. They were terrific and talked us through the diagnostic steps. Then off to the noodle house. It’s genuine Chinese and a great cheap meal. Get back to the boat and find the multi’s are still around so we go to their boat for a cuppa and to say goodbye. I will miss them, especially Petra. She loves the sailing, is very self sufficient and capable and bubbly also.
Wednesday 30th July and the multi’s leave real early in the morning and we watch them disappear around the corner after hurriedly getting dressed while Steve is waving them off. Boat tidy day and when we go for a rest to check the emails, we also check out a bit of info that the multis told us. Apparently the big Supermarket has an upstairs section that has hardware and appliances there. Should have known. I only found the cold store section by watching people disappear behind these yellow big plastic curtains and poked my nose in to find out what was there. The manager there is another one of the Christmas Island’s Gems. He has offered us his Ute any time of the day, as it is parked outside the shop all day. No answer from Bali, but more help from the wind generator mob. Steve decided to go exploring again while I am checking the email. Steve being Steve decides the challenge of a vertical cliff was too much to ignore. Up he goes armed with thongs to protect his feet on the viscous larva, camera to show what I silly billy he is and a walkie talky so he can tell me he will be late to meet me at the dinghy. Once he was ¼ of the way there, he could not go back. He found all the stinging and prickly bushes on the way and itched all night for his efforts.
Thursday 31st July and we wake in time to listen to the radio scheds. We are pleased to hear that the multis are sailing in light conditions; however their main is a bit ripe and hope it will last to Thailand. After the email thing we find a little cafe open and enjoy a milk drink. A rare opportunity on this island. We find out another boat has just arrived so decided to head back to the boat to meet the new comers. They had cleared customs and when they finally arrived back at their boat it was late and spent much time trying to figure out how to stop the mooring from bashing their lovely yacht. This is something that Steve had just worked out finally, but they could not use that control method as their boat had a bob stay in the way. As a result they will be leaving asap. Steve was wakened in the night by their mooring attacking their boat and the killer dinghy attacking our boat. We had actually just managed to stop our mooring attacking our boat. Steve had tried all sorts of tricks, including attaching a long bamboo pole to fend it off, but the most successful way was to pull it up short and have lots of fenders on the bow. Problem this method does not work for boats with a bob stay as the neighbours had.

Friday 1st August and we are going on a mine tour. We are picked up from the jetty and I find we are travelling with Jenny and Rob, 2 lovely people I met on Wednesday while walking around. Our tour guide is Jude and we have already heard good reports from other yachties, Rob and Nat about him. The tour was an eye opener on the methods of mining and rehab for the phosphate mine. It was also good fun and saw more of the island. After the tour we do the usual email thing trying the Bali thing but now the internet is not working. What a good excuse to see if a dress shop is open (every time I have been there in the past, it has been closed) Well I saved some money, even though it was open, but still Steve was fed up and had gone back to the boat so it was up to me to try the emails again. We get a reply, but not what we wanted, so it looks like Bali is not on. We also get an email from the wind generator mob and they will ship a part to us. Great service. We will get the part sent to Dampier, so it will be there when we arrive.
Steve has an early night and is tucked up in bed when the boat is rudely jolted waking him up with a start. I was already up having noticed something was wrong when shutting the boat down for the night. We were closer to the beach than usual. Warning, Warning. The beach consists of rocks and corals! I am just racing back from the bow, after finding ½ a mooring line attached to the boat when we bump and I bump into Steve racing out of the cabin. Engine on, keel wound up and we are off pretty quick. It doesn’t help that I drop the boat hook in the water. Lucky it floated. We get back onto the mooring, but in the meantime, we have given our neighbours a scare and they spend a long time watching their wayward mooring that has already given grief the night. The neighbours tell us that another 5 boats are coming in soon. And none of them are crazy enough to come from the west. The French and the neighbours will be leaving Monday, but that will only leave 2 moorings free. The other alternative is to tie up to the humongous ships moorings. What a nightmare!
Saturday 2nd August and we decide to take the killer tinny to shore to dry out and get the barnacles off. They didn’t take long to grow. Then I’m off into town to get some milk etc, etc. Would you believe the engine conks out as I approach the jetty in the WB. No panic! If I can’t get it going, I will float ashore. I am trying different fuel tanks etc to get it going and one of the French Yachties asks if he can help. He is high up on the jetty. I call back that I’m OK, but when he goes out to his boat, will he call by Freo and tell Steve the engine is broken. He dives in from that great height and swims the 300m to Steve to tell him. He must love his swimming. On the shore the locals had a surf life saving course happening and they were very eager to rescue me. I have no choice but to accept. Good fun.... It’s movie night tonight and it is NOT a chick flick this time, it’s called 21,(about counting cards at blackjack) so Steve will come. There have been a few scattered showers thru the day, so we pack the very expensive emergency rainwear (2 garbage bags) and head on up the hill to catch a different Chinese Restaurant before the movie. It did not rain during the movie and Steve didn’t sigh too much during it. It is so hard to get him to sit still for a little while.
Sunday 3rd August. Mid morning I look out and see a yacht in the distance. It took a while before we realise that it is actually sailing away from us and it must have come from the next bay. We later found out that they had come in late yesterday afternoon and had anchored at the re-fuelling facility. It was a large yacht and a shame we did not get to meet up. Though it is gusty but we decide we have to get the WB rigged up for sailing. I am having withdrawals. Steve gets most of it rigged up for me as it is in his best interest to get me on the water. As the beach is entirely unsuitable, I have to launch the WB from the yacht. We also consider it a safety factor to take a radio. So off I go and quickly find out the wind is changing 180 degrees and 5-20 knots in the bay and past the point the wind is only changing 90 degrees at 15-35 knots. Can’t win either way. I choose the option of the heavier winds but have to drop the jib to compensate. After my sailing fix we packed away the WB sail kit as we are due to leave CI soon. The only problem I have with CI is that it is not a good place to sail dinghies from.
Monday 4th August and the French boat ‘Anka’ leaves early and we start preparing the boat for the sail back. I found water in the forward bilges and was not happy. We had always thought this part of the boat was dry. Another job to do! Also washing day as there will be a phosphate boat in tomorrow which will share some of its precious cargo with us.
Tuesday 5th August is tour day and we pay $80 each to go in a Landcruiser (Steve in the dinky seat in the back) and see the parts of the island we could not hitch to. It was nice but it was a shame we could not hire a car to see more of the island. In the morning another boat comes in.(Floating Point) We had already heard on the grapevine that it had lost its prop and would have to sail in. The local rescue group towed it in to the mooring next door. We thought this was a good chance to get rid of the killer tinny as we did not need it anymore, so it was promptly donated to the rescue group who will have fun practicing retrieving it as a sunken boat. We will have our revenge!!! During our sundown walk we meet up with the Floating Point crew and are invited back to the boat for a sundowner for tomorrow.
Wednesday 6th August is Mums Birthday. Happy Birthday Mum! Time to finally go to the Grotto. No bikes for hire so decide to walk. Ugghh! I was worn out half way and despite a lift for ¼ of the trip, I was more than willing to go for a swim, even though the water was cold. It is a cave on the land side of the coast, fed by the sea. When there is a wave, there is actually swell in it. It was fun, but decided to hitch asap to get back. We had to travel halfway before a car came by; the young fellow gave us a lift to the local noodle place for a bit of sustenance. Sundowner on FP was enjoyable. She is a lovely ketch from Michigan at 50’ long.
Thursday 7th August was shopping day. The shop manager, Eddy, who we had met before when hitching, gave us his ute to lug our shopping back to the boat. What a lovely guy. I paid the harbour master the mooring fees and while there, his wife rings from Perth (on holiday) and has just met Karen, who served her at Hog’s Breath. A small world! After a bit more work on the boat, we have a sundowner on the beach armed with a crossword. Didn’t get a chance to do the crossword as there were too many people to talk to.
Friday 8th August is our last day at CI. The last day for this blog before we sail for Dampier. Cheryle and Gerald from Nannup, who we met on the tour came for a visit and we had a lovely time. They are flying out today. We are now stocking up on water via the water maker and then off to post this blog and check out with customs
Catch you all in Dampier